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We have had these joints,
especially ball joints, go over 100 000kms,
here in South Africa. |
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This varies from agent
to agent, depending on the area in which
they work. But typically from 3 months to
100 000kms. |
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There is a suggested
list of repair charges (in SA Rand) in the
instruction manual, as a guide. However,
you need to examine the local prices of
spares and repair charges, before setting
your prices. We try to save the vehicle
owner at least 50% of what it would
have cost by replacement, at the same time
intending to make 80 to 120% gross for the
agent. A "win-win" situation. |
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The system is designed
to be used on the vehicle. However, we find
that agents get many joints for repair on
the bench. On the car, the job should not
take more than about 12 to 15 minutes per
joint (maximum), and 10 to 12 minutes on
the bench. Of course, trucks will take longer,
but then you also earn much more for this
work. |
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No. These joints are
complex joints, not for this method of repair. |
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Yes. We have a number
of agents who are also roadworthy garages.
Remember, provided that the repair is done
to MARGINALLY worn joints (ie. Not about
to come apart), there should be no problem.
After repair, the vehicle is (in this area),
much more roadworthy than before. |
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We operate our system
like a franchise, but not formally. We will
not sell to your next-door neighbour unless
we find that the system is not being used,
and our polymer raw material is not being
utilized. |
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As far as we know, only
one in nearly 3 years. The repair was done
to the lower ball joint of a 27 year old
Peugeot 404, used on bad roads for most
of its life. A new joint was available but
at a very high price, so the owner opted
for the repair. |
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Almost all commonly
used joints can be repaired. However, I
understand that there is an American joint
that has rubber inside it when made. The
rubber must be taken out first before repair
with Re-New-It, making it difficult, but
not impossible. There are also a few joints
around where the bottom plate is very close
to the ball. It may be necessary with these
to drill & tap on one side of that bottom
plate, or into the cast iron side, but only
as a last resort. I do not actually know
of a specific joint that cannot be repaired
using this method. |
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Since only pressure is
needed, rather than volume, only 8 to 10
bar is needed (124 - 150 psi). |
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Not strictly necessary,
but we advise to do so, since this makes
the most of the repair. |
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Most certainly yes. For
the agent, this is the best and most profitable
area of business. It does take longer of
course. One of my agents in the country
tells the following ; a logging truck needing
a roadworthy had its king pins repaired
and got the roadworthy, 6 months later was
checked, OK, then another 6 months and was
still OK. Probably low distance covered,
but heavy loads and on bad roads, gave savings
for the owner. |
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The metallurgy of these
joints is often very second rate. Thus they
wear out quickly it is therefore a good
idea to repair the new joints to
give them the best change of lasting. I
know of a set of VW Passat ball joints that
lasted all of 3 months after installation
(Original equipment parts were too expensive)! |
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The ball of the joint
is supported by a spring or sprung plate
or moulded plastic. This keeps the ball
into its locating 'socket'. This item loses
its tension, allowing the ball to fall out
of the socket momentarily, this is the knocking
often heard from the front end. Injecting
the polymer and supporting the ball prevents
this. After repair, it is left as a greasable
joint too, thus substantially lowering the
rate of wear from that point on. |
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Yes, provided
that the joint is still considered to be
only marginally worn. |
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The RNT124 polymer has
a compression strength of up to 18000 psi
(124 mpa), and 12000 psi torsional strength.
It also has a dry lubricant inserted in
manufacture. This material was originally
developed for industrial bushes and bearing
applications. |
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For most of the heating
requirements of this system, propane gas
must be used. This gas burns a much lower
temperature than oxy-acetylene, thus the
rate of heating and eventual temperature
is more easily controlled. The polymer must
not be over-heated, and 170 degrees C is
not a high temperature. Only when heating
a large lump of steel or cast iron, such
as in king pins, can oxy-acetylene be used. |
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